In 2009, for our first backpacking foray into Colorado, we chose the Southern San Juan Wilderness as our destination, based on the quick and easy access available from northern New Mexico, and the area’s reputation as a rugged, high altitude, oasis for wildlife. For this first exploration of the San Juan Mountains, we decided on a 30 mile loop hike that would begin and end in the Conejos valley, ascend and descend the South Fork and tributary canyons and include a short jaunt along the Continental Divide Trail. This loop allowed us to explore three different high alpine lakes: Green Lake, Blue Lake and Glacier Lake, and offered a potential access point to ascend Conejos Peak. Despite being hammered by early onset monsoon season storms, and being harassed by clouds of mosquitoes denser than any we'd previously experienced, we became so enamored of the area, we returned in 2010 to leisurely explore the Roaring Gulch trail and make a second, storm free, attempt to enjoy the view from Conejos Peak which, at 13,172 feet, is the highest point in the area (and inaccessible to us the first year due to the fire and brimstone storms that were sweeping across the ridge). Our persistence paid off. In 2010 we were rewarded with clear blue skies and a warm wildlife welcome. We were startled by a protective mother grouse, serenaded by a woodpecker, ignored by browsing deer, buzzed by an early morning hummingbird and circumnavigated, over the course of two days, by a herd of elk that numbered more than 100. And we were able to take in the view from Conejos Peak.